Earflap hat with or without Panda ears

Supplies:

Size 6mm 16" circular needles and dpns (double pointed needles)

Stitch Marker

bulky wool of your choice (I have used a strand of 8 ply in 2 different colours to achieve the desired thickness for these hats - so 2 strands knitted as one)

Crochet hook (optional)

Earflaps:

CO 5 sts onto one dpn.

Row 1: *increase into first stitch, k until last stitch, increase into last stitch*

Row 2: knit all stitches

Repeat these two rows until there are 13 stitches on the needle. Continue in garter stitch (knitting all stitches) for 12 rows

Cut yarn leaving a 10cm tail.

Repeat for second earflap.

Hat:

Slip stitches from one earflap onto circular needles. Attach yarn and cast on 19 stitches (loosely!) Knit on second earflap. CO 14 sts and place marker for the beginning of the round. Join in the round (being careful not to twist) And work garter stitch border (k1 row, p1 row) for 4 rows (Or to taste)

Work stockinette stitch (knit every row)until your work measures 15cm

Decreases:

Round 1:*K7, K2tog* around.

Round 2:*K6, K2tog* around.

Round 3: *K5, k2tog* around.

Round 4: *K4, k2tog* around.

Round 5: *K3, k2tog* around. Here you will need to change to double pointed needles.

Round 6: *K2, K2tog* around.

Round 7: *K1, K2tog* around.

Round 8: *K2tog* around.

Cut yarn leaving a six inch tail, thread through remaining stitches. Weave in ends.

(optional: single crochet border around edge of hat in contrasting color.)

Braids: 

Cut 6 pieces of 28" long yarn. thread through the end of the earflap until folded in half. Divide into three sections and braid until 5cm of unbraided yarn remain. Tie knot and trim edges. Repeat on other side.

Ears (make 2 in secondary color):

I use a size 5mm crochet hook and one strand of whatever colour I want the ears to be.

Start with a magic ring.

R1: sc 5 into ring

R2: 2hdc in each st (10)

R3: 2hdc in each st (20)

R4: *hdc, 2hdc in next st, repeat from * (30)

R5-R6: hdc around

R7: *hdc, hdc2tog, repeat from * around (20)

R8: hdc2tog around (10)

Fold the ear in half and slip stitch the bottom together, then tie off. Leave a long tail for sewing. Attach where you see fit.

Newborn Matinee Jacket

Well, whodathunk it was so hard to find a matinee jacket pattern on the internet? I found a few but they weren't what I wanted (wrong size or wool weight). I also figured that what my mother and her generation call a matinee jacket for a baby isnt what this generation calls them. I always liked this style of cardigan/jacket for my babies, you can throw it on over a onesie or stretch 'n' grow for extra warmth and it's got nice wide sleeve holes so no contorting your new baby into it.

So, I had to 'invent' a pattern ....

Ingredients
Size 3.25 needles
1 x 100g 4ply baby wool
3 medium buttons


 
Abbreviations
k – knit, p – purl, st – stitch, st st – stocking stitch, g st – garter stitch, alt – alternate, beg – beginning, inc – increase, dec – decrease, rep – repeat, tog – together, sl – slip, sl1 – slip one, psso – pass slip stitch over, pat – pattern, yon – yarn over needle, m1 – make one
er, pat – pattern, yon – yarn over needle, m1 – make one

TW2: knit into front of 2nd st on left hand needle then knit into front of the first st, slipping both st off the needle at the same time

Using 3.25 needles cast on 176sts 

1st row: K3, *P2,K2, P2, repeat from * to  last 3 stitches, K3

2nd row: K5, *P2, K2, repeat from * to last 5 sts, K5 end

3rd row: K3, *P2,TW2, P2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, K3

4th row: as 2nd row

these 4 rows form the "mock" cable pattern. The 3 stitches on either side of your work are the front band, knitted in garter stitch ...

Repeat these 4 rows 10 times - 44 rows in total, 11 mock cable rows 


From now on you are knitting in stocking stitch - knit one row, purl one row.

Dec row: K3, (k2tog) 3 times, * k1, (k2tog) twice, k2, (k2tog) twice, rep from * to last 3 sts, K3 (119sts)
Divide for armholes
K3,P21 for left front, cast off 12sts, p42 (includes the stitch already on needle) for back, cast off 12sts, purl to last 3 sts, K3
 

Right Front
Row 1: knit
Row 2: purl to last 3 stiches, K3
Rep the last 2 rows until armhole measures 5.5cm/ 2 ¼ inches ending after a purl row
Shape neck
Next row: K3, slip these onto a safety pin for later use. Cast off 4sts, knit to end (17sts)
Continue in st st, dec 1 st at neck edge on every row until 11sts remain
Continue without anymore dec until armhole measures 8.75 cm/3 ½ ins, cast off
 

Back
With right side facing, rejoin yarn to centre 42sts
Starting on a knit row continue in st st until back measures same as left front 8.75 cm/3 ½ ins ending on a purl row,
Shape shoulders
Cast off 11sts, at beg of next 2 rows, slip remaining sts on a holder for collar, break of yarn, (20sts)
 

Left front
With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining 24sts
Starting with a knit row, continue in st st.

On the 2nd row make a buttonhole: K2,YO, K1, P to end. K6 rows and repeat the buttonhole row.

Complete right front to match left front, remember the 3 sts that make up your front border to be knitted in garter stitch.
 

Make up
Sew shoulder seams

Collar
Using main colour with right side facing
With right side facing you, pick up the 3 sts from the safety pin, knit and pick up from right side of neck 15sts, then 20sts of holder on back, the 15sts down left side of neck and the remaining 3 sts from the other safety pin (56sts)
Knit 2 rows, On the 3rd row make a buttonhold, K2 rows, cast off

Sleeves
Using contrast 1 cast on 58sts

1st row: K3, *P2,K2, P2, repeat from * to  last 3 stitches, K3

2nd row: K5, *P2, K2, repeat from * to last 5 sts, K5 end

3rd row: K3, *P2,TW2, P2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, K3

4th row: as 2nd row

Repeat these 4 rows 10 times (11 mock cable patterns in total)

Cast off loosely, sew in threads
Sew sleeve seam. sew sleeve into jacket, sew buttons on to correspond with buttonholes 

Please let me know if there are any mistakes in this pattern.

Shawl for Angus

THIS shawl has taken me over 2 months to make - working full time on the ward and trying to find time to make this in time for Angus's arrival drove me crazy but it is now finished. The pattern is copied from an old 60's pattern book and it confused the hell out of me so my shawl isnt exactly like the picture in the book. When I get a bit of time I'll type up the pattern and maybe some bright spark will figure it out.

I love the corners of this shawl and the basket-weave stitch makes the 4ply appear thicker than it really is.

Mini Muks

I found the pattern for these a while ago but have had so many other things to make that I've only now found time to create them.

The link for the pattern can be found here http://windrosefiberstudio.blogspot.com/2010/04/mini-muk-luks-crochet-along-part-i.html - this tutorial is the best ever. 

For Aussies and kiwis - I used a 6.5mm hook and DOUBLED my 8 ply to give me the correct thickness of yarn ie: used 2 strands of 8ply together. I tried 12 ply with the 6.5 hook but it was too 'breezey' across the top of my foot. I also had to do 4 rounds of the squares because 3 as per the pattern wasn't big enough. As long as you make 2 squares that meet when you wrap them around your calf you'll be fine. These are soooo warm!

Mock Cable Booties

Size: prem, 0, 3mo

Materials:

4ply yarn 25g

size 3.25mm needles

Abbreviations:

TW2: knit into front of 2nd st on left hand needle then knit into front of the first st, slipping both st off the needle at the same time

Method:

Make 2 - begin at the ankle.

Using 3.25mm needles cast on 46, 50, 50 sts and begin pattern

1st row: P2, *K2, P2, repeat from * to end

2nd row: K2, *P2, K2, repeat from * to end

3rd row: P2, *TW2, P2, repeat from * to end

4th row: as 2nd row

these 4 rows form the "mock" cable pattern

Work a further 20, 20, 24 rows pattern (decrease 14, 16, 14 sts evenly along last row) 32, 34, 36 sts

Shape instep:

Work in stocking stitch for remainder of bootie (knit one row, purl one row)

Next row: K20, 21, 22 turn

P8

turn

Continue on center 8 stitches for 14, 16, 18 rows stocking stitch (There should be 12, 13, 14 stitches on either side)

Turn, break yarn and leave these 8 sts on left hand needle

Shape sides:

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to the first group of 12, 13, 14 sts at right edge. Knit up 10, 13, 13 sts evenly along first side of instep, knit across 8 sts of instep then knit 10, 13, 13 sts evenly along other side of instep, then knit across remaining 12, 13, 14 sts to end.

Work 7, 9, 9 rows stocking stitch beginning with a purl row

Shape heel and toe:

1st row: K2 tog, K 22, 26, 27, K2 tog, K2 tog, K 22, 26, 27, K2 tog

2nd and alt rows: Purl

3rd row: K2 tog, K 20, 24, 25, K2 tog, K2 tog, K 20, 24, 25, K2 tog

5th row: K2 tog, K18, 22, 23, K2 tog, K2 tog, K 18, 22, 23, K2 tog

6th row: Purl

Cast off loosely and join seams.

Chevron Crochet Afghan (zig zag stitch)

Zig Zag Crochet also known as chevron crochet produces an awesome result. You need at least 3 different colours for the zigs and zags to look effective and you can crochet in your favourite stitch! I prefer double crochet for this afghan. Single crochet is just too teensy and the result is quite tight. Half double crochet is also nice and thats what I used for my Grandbaby's Cot Blanket - the mint/white and lemon one above.

The beauty of this is that you can use whatever ply yarn that takes your fancy and whatever hook size you want to use. I usually use 8 ply yarn and a size 5.5 hook. Play with your stripes. One of my favourite rugs is the blue one pictured. It has 6 rows of Colour 1, 3 rows of Colour 2, 6 rows of Colour 3,  3 rows of Colour 2 then back to Colour 1 ....

Here is a basic pattern:

The only stitch you need to know how to do is double crochet (dc)

Note: V stitch is: one double crochet into the hole of the row below, then 2 chain, then another double crochet into the same hole.
...
Materials: I usually use 8ply wool and a size 5.5 hook, 4 x 100gm balls of 3 different colours - total 12 balls

Make a chain as wide as you want your blanket. For example 160 chain. Increase or decrease in multiples of 24
Row 1: dc into the second chain from the hook - continue in dc  to the end of the row, last chain - 1 dc ,1 chain, 1 dc
TURN
Row 2: 4 chain, 1 dc into the first hole in the row below, **7 dc into the following next 7 holes, SKIP 2, 7 dc into the next 7 holes, V STITCH into the next hole** repeat to the last hole ... 1 dc, 1 chain, 1 dc into the last hole.
TURN
Row 3: 4 chain, 1 dc into the first hole in the row below, **7 dc into the following next 7 holes, SKIP 1, 7 dc into the next 7 holes, V STITCH into the next hole** repeat to the last hole ... 1 dc, 1 chain, 1 dc into the last hole.

Row 3 is the pattern, repeat until your rug is as long as you want.

The V stitch is the peak of the zig zag and the skip is the trough.


have fun!

Knitted Hotwater Bottle Cover

This is a hottie cover I usually knit on circular needles but I broke the wire on my size 8mm and decided to try knitting it up on the flat. You'll end up with a side seam but because you use fluffy wool the seam isnt obvious AND you can always knit it on circular needles - the principle is the same. I absolutely love knitting these up because they grow so fast, I whip one of these up in about 3 hours. They are lovely and thick so you wont burn yourself and the fluffy yarn makes them snuggleable.

Ingredients:

2 x 50g balls of ostrich, eyelash, feathers or any of that lovely cheap fluffy yarn you can get these days

1 x 100gm ball of a matching 8 ply yarn
size 8mm needles and size 6mm needles

Method:

You are using one strand of the fluffy yarn and one strand of 8 ply knitted together as one strand.

On size 8mm needles cast on 52 stitches.

Knit in stocking stitch (knit 1 row, Purl 1 row) until your work measures 10 inches (25cm)

Shape the "shoulders"

Knit 2 tog, knit 24, knit 2 tog, knit 24

Purl 2 tog, Purl 23, Purl 2 tog, Purl 23

Knit 2 tog, knit 22, knit 2 tog, knit 22

Purl 2 tog, Purl 21, Purl 2 tog, purl 21

Knit 2 tog, *knit 6, knit 2 tog* to end of row

Change to size 6mm needles and using 2 strands of 8 ply knitted together as one knit 1, Purl 1 to end of row

Continue in rib until work measures 8 inches (20cm)

Cast off leaving a long tail to sew your side seam and bottom seam.

Turn right side out. "Squish" your empty hottie into it's cover, fill with hot water and ENJOY!

For circular knitting you just KNIT around and around and around until your work measures the required length. Do the "shoulder" shaping thus: Knit 2 tog, knit 24, knit 2 tog, knit 24, knit 2 tog, knit 23, knit 2 tog, knit 23, knit 2 tog, knit 22, knit 2 tog, knit 22, knit 2 tog, knit 21, knit 2 tog, knit 21. Work the extra decrease row: knit 2 tog, *knit 6, knit 2 tog* to end. Change to your size 6mm needles and work in rib for the required length. Cast off. Sew the bottom seam and turn right side out.

Still working on my Africa Flower Afghan

Just thought I'd post this so y'all know why I havent posted anything recently. I still have a few hexagons to make AND all those half hexagons but I decided to sew some together just to satisfy my curiousity about what the heck it would look like completed.

Not bad huh?

Knitting pattern: 8 ply "London" Beanie ... now known as Hamish's TeenieBeanie

My teenage son Hamish asked me to make him a beanie but "not one of those chunky hats with that stupid fold up" Hey, no problem! Actually it turned into a drama of googling and googling and resorting to an old 70's hat book my mother-in-law gave me years ago. I loved the LONDON beanie http://www.headhuggers.org/patterns/kpatt16.htm because it's exactly what Hamish wanted but it's knitted up on worsted weight (Aran weight) wool on size 4.5mm circular needles (which I have but wasnt in the mood to use). The first line said to cast on 72 stitches .... hmmm, that's not right I thought. I'd just finished making a beanie for myself with 12 ply on size 6.5mm needles and had cast on 70 stitches to get a fabulous result - there was no way 72 stitches on size 4.5mm needles would work.


Ugh! American knitting patterns drive me crazy!

Here is Hamish's TEENIE BEANIE

Recipe

Ingredients: 

               1 x 100gm ball of 8ply wool

                size 4mm needles

Method:

Cast on 92 stitches

1st row: *knit 2, purl 2*, Repeat ** to end

Repeat 1st row until work measures 6cm

Next row: knit to end

Next row: purl to end

Repeat last two rows until work measure 14cm

Next row: *knit 7, knit 2 tog,* repeat ** to end (NB: you WONT have 7 stitches at the end. Just knit whatever is left to complete the row. Don't fret - it looks great when it's finished and whoever gets close enough to count your decrease rows needs shot)

Next row: Purl to end

Next row: *knit 6, knit 2 tog*, Repeat ** to end 

Next row: Purl to end

Next row:  *knit 5, knit 2 tog*, Repeat ** to end

Next row: Purl to end

Next row:  *knit 4, knit 2 tog*, Repeat ** to end

Next row: Purl to end

Next row:  *knit 3, knit 2 tog*, Repeat ** to end

Next row: Purl to end

Next row: *knit 2, knit 2 tog*, Repeat ** to end

Next row: Purl to end

Next row:  *knit 1, knit 2 tog*, Repeat ** to end

Next row: Purl to end

Next row: *knit 2tog*, Repeat ** to end

Break wool leaving a long tail. Thread tail through the remaining 10 stiches on the needle and pull tight.

Sew your seam neatly.

                                                                                 Thanks Mum!

Crocheted Can Cap

So many projects, so little time!

I've been busy this past week working and also my daughter Lisa and grandson Jayden came to visit from Northcliffe so I haven't had much time to crochet or knit. Lisa noticed my pile of can labels sitting on the microwave and couldn't picture a Can Cap so I whipped one up for her.

Isnt she a cute model?

There are heaps of different tutorials on the internet for making these. I liked the concept of recycling something and making it into something so totally, radically different.
I am seriously considering combining PLARN and cans and having a hat that is made fully from trash. If I ever make it I will post a photo of it.

Send me your cans!

Plarn - recycle your supermarket bags!

CREATING A BALL OF PLASTIC YARN:
Straighten the plastic bag and lay it flat on the table or ironing board which is where I cut mine.  
Smooth to remove any trapped air.

           
Start by cutting off the bottom and handles/top of the grocery bag.  
      


            1) 
These are fastened together with a half hitch knot.  1) Lay out 2 loops, laying 1 loop on top of the other.  2) Pull  the top loop under and through the bottom loop.  3) This will form a half hitch.
  2) 3) 4)
4) Be really careful when you pull the knots as flat as possible without stretching the plastic - it WILL break.
     
After all loops are fastened together--roll into a ball.  
This can be crocheted like 'yarn'.
This ball is your 'yarn'. from which bags, mats and etc can be crocheted. 
NOTE: You cannot stretch the yarn tightly over your fingers as it will stretch the yarn and break it. As you crochet, hold it firmly but not tightly.
This link will take you to a fabulous website with free patterns to use your plarn for.

http://www.myrecycledbags.com/

Enjoy!

Crocheted Cloche Hat

This is MY version of the fabulous Cloche Hat. It's sized to fit an average woman's head.

Materials:

• Size 6mm crochet hook
• 12 ply yarn (I used Moda Vera Marvel)

Instructions:

Chain 3 and join.
Round 1: 7 hdc in ring formed by joined chain, join with a slip stitch(7hdc)
Round 2: ch 1, 2 hdc in ea st around, join (14hdc)
Round 3: ch 1, *1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st* rep around, join (21hdc)
Round 4: ch 1, *1 hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st* rep around, join (28hdc)
Round 5: ch 1, *1 hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st* rep around, join (35hdc)
Round 6: ch 1, *1 hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st* rep around, join (42hdc)
Round 7: ch 1, *1 hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st* rep around, join (49hdc)
Round 8: ch 1, *1 hdc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st* rep around, join (56hdc)
Round 9: ch 1, 1 hdc in ea st around, join (56hdc)

Your increases should line up as you work your way from round to round.
Round 10-19 : rep Rnd 9

Once the body of the hat is as long you as want (work less or more rows to get the length you want) you start on your brim as follows.

Round 20: ch 1, in back loops only, *1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st* rep around, join (84hdc)
Round 21: ch 1, 1 hdc in ea st around, join.
Round 22-24: rep Round 20

Round 25: ch 1, sc into each stitch to the end of the row. Fasten off.

Abbreviations:

• ch = chain
• ea = each
• hdc = half double crochet
• sc = single crochet
• st = stitch
• rep = repeat

Adorn your hat with a flower made as follows:

size 5 mm hook and yarn

Chain 30

(dc,ch 3, slip st, {ch 3, dc, ch 3, slip st} twice) all in the 4th ch from the hook, 

*(slip st, ch 3, dc, ch 3, slip st)* all in the next ch, repeat from * across the chain to the end. Fasten off.

Starting with the first 3 petals you made, spiral the petals around in layers and stitch in place from the back.

Stitch firmly to your hat.

Covert American yarn and hook sizes to Australian

OK, so I live "down-under" and I'm not primitive but Googling just about always leads me to American sites where they talk about worsted weight or sport weight yarns and tell me to use an F or a J hook (or any other random letter of the alphabet). Sometimes they tell me to use 4 ply and I get all excited because hey, I KNOW what that is! Now, 4 ply yarn here in Australia (and New Zeland) is baby wool. So I look at the pattern and think to myself that no idiot would make a ladies hat out of baby wool unless they had way too much time on their hands and head back to google and click "next".

Some times I think that OK, I'll try 8 ply and use a size 5 hook (following the suggestion on the wool wrapper) .... the woman's beanie I made using that method would probably fit a 3 year old. I followed the pattern exactly! I am continually modifying patterns I find on the internet to accomodate my down-under brain, hooks and yarn but eventually I get the result I want.

Viola! 

Below is the correct wool weights/plys and hook sizes.

lace weight, superfine, ultra fine, baby weight is 2-3 ply in UK/NZ/Aus

fingering weight, fine, baby weight is 3-4 ply in UK/NZ/Aus

sport or light weight is 4ply in UK/NZ/Aus

DK or medium is 8 ply in UK/NZ/Aus

worsted or heavy weight is 10 ply or double knitting in UK/NZ/Aus

Aran is 12-ply or triple knitting in UK/NZ/Aus

bulky yarn is 14 ply, double double in UK/NZ/Aus

Crochet Hook Conversion Chart

US Hook Sizes	Canada/UK Hook Sizes	AUS/NZ/Metric Hook Sizes
0	14	2.0 mm
B/1	13	2.25 mm
C/2	12	2.75 mm
C/2	11	3.0 mm
D/3	10	3.25 mm
E/4	-	3.5 mm
F/5	9	3.75 mm
G/6	8	4.0 mm
7	7	4.5 mm
H/8	6	5.0 mm
I/9	5	5.5 mm
J/10	4	6.0 mm
K/10 ½	3	6.5 mm
10.75	2	7.0 mm
-	1	7.5 mm
L/11	0	8.0 mm
M/13	00	9.0 mm
N/15	000	10.0 mm
O/17	-	12.0 mm
P/19	-	15.0 mm
Q/19	-	16.0 mm
S/35	-	19.0 mm
50	-	25.0 mm

 

Crocheted Baby Mary Jane Booties

I know, I know! I am supposed to be working on the new Grandbaby's cot blanket!

I saw these at The Guildford fair yesterday and thought they were cute and of course once I got home I headed straight to google to find a pattern. The bootie is crocheted all in one with no seams, you do have to make the strap separate and sew in place but it's only 2 stitches. I added the little pink flower simply because I am addicted to flowers, these days they are being made randomly just for the hell of it. You could add ribbons or bows or simply leave the bootie plain. 

These are made with 8 ply wool on  a size 4 hook and would fit new born to 3 months.

A similar pattern can be found here:

http://crotiques.com/fakemjs.htm

I modified 3 patterns to make the booties and will sit and write it down when I make the next pair.

Petal Flower Squares

These gorgeous flowers were linked to me by my sister Julie when she was trying to show me (from New Zealand) what a crocheted flower looked like. I whipped this square up in about 20 minutes - not bad for a first effort even if I may say so myself. When I have finished the hexagon rug and the zig zag rug for my newest grandchild I think I'll make a rug made completely of flowers.

I keep this flower square sitting on the kitchen bench (yeah, random I know but it's almost like a post-it-note). Every time I look at it I get motivated to FINISH the rugs I have already started.

Here are the instructions. All credit goes to RoseHip and her blog at Typepad. My square has ONE more row around, 7 rounds in total. I did this so I could have a visible border around my flower once it is sewn together. Just repeat row 6 making sure you line up your corners. I'll make one up one day soon so I can tell you exactly how row 7 goes.

http://rosehip.typepad.com/rose_hip_blog/2008/11/index.html 

With the color of yarn you wish to use for the center of the flower, ch 4 and join with a sl st into the first ch to form a ring. Continue working in the round as follows:

Round 1: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc, ch 1), * 1 dc into ring, ch 1 **; repeat from * to ** 6 times. Join with a sl st into 3rd ch of the ch-4 made at the beginning of this round. (There should be 8 ch-1 spaces in the round.) Fasten off and break off the first color.

Round 2: Join the color you wish to use for the petals into any of the ch-1 spaces, ch 1 and * 1 sc, 3 dc, 1 sc ** into the same ch-1 space; repeat from * to ** into the next 7 ch-1 spaces. Join with a sl st into the first sc of the first ch-1 space. (There should be 8 petals around the center.)

Round 3: Ch 1, and working behind the petals now, sl st into the stem † of the last sc made in round 2. Ch 4, sc into the stems of the next 2 adjoining scs (between the two petals) and then * ch 3, sc into the stems of the next 2 scs; repeat from * to ** 5 more times, ch 3, and then sl st into the first ch of the ch-4 done at the beginning of this round. You should now have a ch-3 space (or loop) behind each petal made in round 2.

Round 4: Ch 1 and work * 1 sc, 5 dc, 1 sc ** into the first ch-3 space and repeat from * to ** into all the next ch-3 spaces; sl st into the first sc of the first petal made in this round. You should now have another 8 petals behind the first 8 made. Fasten off and break off this color. 

Round 5: Still working behind the petals, join the yarn you wish to use as the background for the flower to the stems † of any 2 adjoining scs of round 4 (between two petals), and then ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2dc into the same sc stems, and ch 1. Into the stems of the next 2 scs  of round 4, * 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc to make a corner, ch 1, 3 dc, into the stems of the next 2 scs , ch 1 **; repeat from * to ** 2 more times, and then 3dc, ch 1, 3 dc into the stems of the next 2 scs, ch 1 and sl st into the 3rd ch of ch-3 done at the beginning of this round.

Round 6: Ch 1, * 1 sc into each of the next three dcs done in round 5, 1sc into the ch-1 space that follows, 1sc into each of the next three dcs, 3 sc into the ch-1 corner space, 1sc into each of the next three dcs, and 1 sc into the ch-1 space that follows **; repeat from * to ** 3 more times, join with a sl st into the first sc made in this round. Fasten off and break off yarn.

ch = chain stitch; sc = single crochet stitch; dc = double crochet stitch; sl st = slip stitch.

Actually it's Saturday March 26th ...

...shows what I know huh?

I have been working on this African Flower hexagon rug since last winter. It's fiddly but each hexagon is gorgeous and I can visualise them all sewn together. This will definitely be an heirloom rug once it's completed!

I kind of have it figured that I need 12 hexagons in each colour ie; 12 pink flowers, 12 blue flowers and so on ... So 10 hexagons across and about 12 to 14 hexagons high and it should be big enough to fit nicely on a queen size bed. The only oops I have with this pattern is that when sewn together I am going to have a weird edge. Looks like I have to google HALF hexagons so I can straighten up the finished rug.

Had a count up - I have 60 hexagons crocheted so far, half way - yay me! I promise to upload a photo of the finshed product.

The link for these flowers is below at the bottom of the page.

Enjoy!

Saturday 25th March

OK. So, I'm new to this blogging thing but I have so many knitting and crochet patterns that I have found on the internet and I can't keep track of my "history" on my computer anymore because my new computer has Window's 7 installed on it and I am a Windows XP geek. In saying that, I have 2 laptops and I cant find anything on either of them!

Hence - a blog. I figure cyberland can probably keep better track of my links and fav places AND google will bring you here so I can share them with you. This will take me a bit of time to figure out so bear with me as I learn and stumble through the weird and wonderful way of creating a blog and my very own page - heck I have a font on my intial description that I want to change and I can't for the life of me figure out how its done.

 Here is a sample of what I do. My sister Julie sent me a message on Facebook asking me to make a necklace for my niece Jessica. Flowers, if you please. They are in New Zealand. Maybe things are a little different there or maybe I just dont get out of my house often enough but a necklace made from crocheted flowers made my mind boggle and even though I had/have HAVE other projects on my hooks and needles I started on this straight away. 

Flowers, as any crocheter (is this a word?) knows are addictive. You make one and think "Oh my God, its so cute!" and next thing you know you have a pile of them. When my sister suggested this I immediately thought "daisy-chain" and this is the end result.

Apparently Jessi loves it!

I have posted a link for making flowers and it's for the large flower, it has 3 rows of petals and is soooo easy. 

Here it is again if you cant find your way around my blog:

http://rosehip.typepad.com/rose_hip_blog/2007/09/september-blur.html

The instructions for the little daisies can be found here: 

 http://greetingarts.typepad.com/greetingarts/2008/07/crocheted-flower-tutorial.html

- fab tutorial with step by step pictures.

Enjoy!